Paihia & Russell — Your Easy, Breezy Bay of Islands Base

Published on 27 April 2025 at 15:40

Nestled in the heart of the Bay of Islands, Paihia and nearby Russell offer a perfect blend of coastal beauty, rich history, and unforgettable adventures. From cruising through iconic sea formations to stepping back into New Zealand’s earliest settlements, there’s plenty here to delight every traveller. Ready to explore? Here are ten of the best experiences these twin towns have to offer.

 

If you’re chasing that classic Northland summer of clear water, island-hopping and fish and chips on the wharf, Paihia and Russell are where it all clicks. Over the years I’ve woven together quick swims between coffees, hopped the ferry for sunset beers and set off at dawn for island hikes. This guide brings together the best things to do, where to stay, when to go and the local tips that turn a good trip into a great one.

Why Paihia and Russell Work So Well

Paihia and Russell form the perfect one-two punch for exploring the Bay of Islands. Everything from cruises and kayaks to dolphin encounters and parasailing launches from their shores. In Paihia you’ll feel the buzz of a classic beach town, tour operators lining the waterfront and cafés serving pre-cruise flat whites. Russell offers a gentler pace—with heritage buildings, garden verandahs and sunset drinks on the waterfront. A short passenger ferry links the two, and a vehicle ferry from Opua keeps your wheels in play, so you can divide your time however you like.

At a Glance

Paihia and Russell are ideal for families, couples and solo travellers who want to mix beach days, short walks and easy wildlife encounters. Two to four days here gives you time for the Treaty Grounds, a Hole-in-the-Rock cruise, hiking Urupukapuka Island and a stroll through historic Russell. If you’re coming from Auckland, it’s about a three-and-a-half-hour drive along State Highway 1.

Top Things to Do

* The Waitangi Treaty Grounds invites you to step into New Zealand’s founding story through guided tours, interactive displays and exceptional museum exhibits. It deserves at least two to three hours of your time—rushing through means you’ll miss the heart of New Zealand history.

* A Hole-in-the-Rock and island-hopping cruise remains a Bay of Islands classic for a reason. Skirting Cape Brett to Piercy Island before dropping anchor at a sheltered bay, these cruises let you swim, snorkel or stretch your legs on a remote shore. Look for operators that build in generous island time—it’s where the magic happens.

* Urupukapuka Island is perfect for a half-day adventure. Hop off the ferry and tackle the loop hikes that wind over headlands into turquoise coves. The late-afternoon light on the ridgelines is a local photographer’s favourite, and you’ll share the trails with native birdlife.

* For dolphin and wildlife encounters, do your homework on operators. The best tours observe marine life without chasing it, prioritising welfare and following strict guidelines. A dawn departure often rewards you with calm seas and quieter bays.

* Haruru Falls Track offers a peaceful boardwalk through mangrove forest before a horseshoe waterfall appears through the trees. Suitable for families and those looking to escape beach crowds, the return loop takes about two to two and a half hours.

* Parasailing over the Bay might feel touristy, but it’s an absolute thrill. Book a calm-morning slot for the smoothest ride and the clearest views of turquoise islands and white sandy beaches.

* On still days, hiring a sea kayak lets you paddle along the shoreline of islands and coves at your own pace. Always check wind and tide conditions and wear a lifejacket, but paddling under those soaring cliffs is unforgettable.

* The Cape Brett Track stretches for 16 kilometres from Opua with epic coastal views. Fit walkers tackle it in a big day, while others opt for an overnight stay at the hut. Either way, you’ll feel a real sense of remoteness and achievement.

* Historic Russell invites a relaxed wander past Pompallier Mission and Printery, Christ Church and the waterfront museum. The cottages and verandahs feel like stepping back a century, and a gelato on the pier at golden hour is compulsory.

* Paihia’s main beach keeps things easy with a grassy reserve, shaded picnic spots and gentle water for swimming. Russell’s Long Beach (Oneroa) offers that classic picnic and swim vibe, while Te Ti Bay serves up quick dips away from the crowds.

Choosing Your Base

Paihia excels if you want convenience and a central hub for tour pick-ups, family-friendly beaches and budget to mid-range stays. Parking can get busy on sunny days, so arrive early for the prime spots. Russell suits couples and heritage buffs who crave romance and slower evenings. Accommodation tends to be pricier here, and if you linger past the last ferry you’ll need to find a cosy guesthouse. If your schedule allows, split your stay—two nights in Paihia and one night in Russell gives you the best of both worlds.

Where to Eat and Drink

In Paihia, Charlotte’s Kitchen delights with deck views and wood-fired sharing plates, especially at sunset. Zane Grey’s Wharf Restaurant sits right on the water and shifts from brunch to sundowners seamlessly. For something light before a cruise, Letz Café serves up reliable coffee and fresh cabinet treats. Over in Russell, the Duke of Marlborough Hotel holds the title of New Zealand’s oldest licensed pub—long lunches here feel like a rite of passage. Hone’s Garden offers pizza under the trees, while Hell Hole Espresso is your go-to caffeine fix before the ferry home.

Where to Stay

For real luxury in Russell, you can’t beat a sea-view room at the Duke of Marlborough. Paihia Beach Resort & Spa is a favourite for couples who want modern rooms within walking distance of everything. The Scenic Hotel Bay of Islands keeps things mid-range in Paihia, and plentiful motels and apartments on side streets often include parking and balconies. Budget travellers will find Russell TOP 10 Holiday Park clean, family-friendly and just a short stroll from the waterfront. If you’re travelling with a group or prefer more space, look into bach rentals.

Itineraries You’ll Actually Do

With just one day, aim to arrive at Waitangi when it opens, then head straight out on a Hole-in-the-Rock cruise that includes an island stop. Ferry across to Russell in the late afternoon for a gentle stroll and sundowners at the Duke. For a two-day trip, spend your first morning at the Treaty Grounds, then hike and swim on Urupukapuka Island before dinner back in Paihia. Day two starts with Haruru Falls, followed by either kayaking or parasailing (depending on weather), and wraps up with a Long Beach swim and Russell dinner. If you have three to four days, add a Cape Brett Track section or overnight, swing by Kerikeri’s Stone Store and Rainbow Falls, and carve out a lazy beach day for ice cream and relaxation.

Best Time to Visit

Summer (December–February) brings hot, busy days perfect for island-hopping—just book tours early. I favour autumn (March–May) for warm water, fewer crowds and that peachy afternoon light. Winter (June–August) is quiet and crisp, ideal for culture-focused days and long lunches, while spring (September–November) bursts with fresh greenery and shoulder-season value—just pack layers for changeable weather. Mornings tend to be calm for cruises and kayaking, while sea breezes pick up in the afternoon, steering you toward museums, vineyards or scenic ferry rides.

Practical Tips You Might Forget

Peak season means key tours—like Hole-in-the-Rock cruises and dolphin trips—sell out fast, so book as soon as you can. Always pack a hat, SPF 50 and sunnies, and consider a rash shirt for boat days. If sea sickness is a concern, take medication before boarding. Jandals work for town, but sneakers are best for island tracks. Parking near the Paihia wharf fills by midday, and Russell’s waterfront dinners can get busy—allow time to explore the back streets. On the water, keep your lifejacket on, stay aware of tides and weather, and trust responsible operators if they change the plan.

Rainy-Day Plan

Even on grey days, the Waitangi Treaty Grounds feels more immersive without the beach pull. In Russell, Pompallier Mission and Printery offer a fascinating step back in time. Nearby Kerikeri invites a half-day of Stone Store, Mission House and café hopping—plus chocolate and coffee stops that never disappoint.

Responsible Travel and Cultural Care

These waterways and sites carry deep cultural significance. Take a moment to learn about local iwi, support operators who prioritise wildlife welfare and leave no trace on tracks and beaches. Your respect ensures the Bay of Islands retains its mana for generations to come.

Final Word

Paihia and Russell make exploring the Bay of Islands feel as easy as stepping onto a boat at dawn and finishing the day with a cold drink on a historic verandah. Keep your plans flexible, follow the weather’s lead and you’ll see why Kiwis and visitors return here year after year.


Add comment

Comments

There are no comments yet.